Morocco does seem like a distant memory now. But I think the changes in us will last forever!
I wanted to record one image that I didn't get a picture of: the drive to Sidi Kaouki-
Dry, very dry rock strewn fields. The stone is very yellow I notice. We drive out of Essaouira up into the hills, away from the ocean, past subdivisions of uninhabited house and apartment complexes "un project" says Ahmed our grand taxi driver. It's unclear whether the projects ever get finished. We turn right onto a smaller road, a strip really, of decomposing tarmac. It looks like it is getting narrower and narrower, perhaps by the day. When a car approaches, we must slow and pull over, with right side tires on the much lower shoulder. We spot another taxi broken down, they get a cheery wave from Ahmed as we pass. More rocks, a donkey tied to a tree. At one point a flock of goats crosses in front of us, Ahmed blows his horn, the shepherd seems unimpressed. A squadron of 10 black Range Rovers pass us. "Un tour" says Ahmed. I imagined secret police, but it is patrons of a swanky hotel seeing the country. No swank on us, our ancient Mercedes taxi has no window handles (the cold air makes you sick apparently) no working speedometer and blown seats. But at 200 dirham round trip, it's a bargain!
Finally we top the rise, with the field of wind turbines on our right and see Sidi Kaouki, a jumble of concrete buildings on the edge of a huge flat, sandy beach. A couple of camels, some quads, and a horse remind us it's tourist land, but there's no pandering to us. The waves roll in and the water is bearable, so we body surf, and walk, throw rocks and eat bread and drink from our water bottles. Life is simple and good. In late afternoon the taxis return, (one driver stayed) We're surprised and not surprised. We've learned to trust that people understand us and will do what they say they'll do!
More yellow stones, more stone walls and concrete houses, low argan trees, floating along on those ancient springs.
I wanted to record one image that I didn't get a picture of: the drive to Sidi Kaouki-
Dry, very dry rock strewn fields. The stone is very yellow I notice. We drive out of Essaouira up into the hills, away from the ocean, past subdivisions of uninhabited house and apartment complexes "un project" says Ahmed our grand taxi driver. It's unclear whether the projects ever get finished. We turn right onto a smaller road, a strip really, of decomposing tarmac. It looks like it is getting narrower and narrower, perhaps by the day. When a car approaches, we must slow and pull over, with right side tires on the much lower shoulder. We spot another taxi broken down, they get a cheery wave from Ahmed as we pass. More rocks, a donkey tied to a tree. At one point a flock of goats crosses in front of us, Ahmed blows his horn, the shepherd seems unimpressed. A squadron of 10 black Range Rovers pass us. "Un tour" says Ahmed. I imagined secret police, but it is patrons of a swanky hotel seeing the country. No swank on us, our ancient Mercedes taxi has no window handles (the cold air makes you sick apparently) no working speedometer and blown seats. But at 200 dirham round trip, it's a bargain!Finally we top the rise, with the field of wind turbines on our right and see Sidi Kaouki, a jumble of concrete buildings on the edge of a huge flat, sandy beach. A couple of camels, some quads, and a horse remind us it's tourist land, but there's no pandering to us. The waves roll in and the water is bearable, so we body surf, and walk, throw rocks and eat bread and drink from our water bottles. Life is simple and good. In late afternoon the taxis return, (one driver stayed) We're surprised and not surprised. We've learned to trust that people understand us and will do what they say they'll do!
More yellow stones, more stone walls and concrete houses, low argan trees, floating along on those ancient springs.
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| Us in the waves! |
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| downtown Sidi Kaouki from the beach |
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